EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW BEFORE FASHION WEEK SS26
After seasons of creative musical chairs, this September marks a cultural reset. SS26 won’t just be a showcase of collections — it’s a referendum on what the next chapter of fashion looks like. Behind the glamour, what’s really being staged is a power shift: a new guard of designers, recalibrated creative strategies, and cities reasserting their voices.
All eyes are on Matthieu Blazy, who makes his debut at Chanel, a show months in the making, weighted with legacy and expectation. At Dior, Jonathan Anderson will present his first womenswear collection following his acclaimed menswear debut earlier this summer, cementing his arrival at the house with full creative control. A season of direction-defining debuts.
Other major moves include Pierpaolo Piccioli’s first outing at Balenciaga, Louise Trotter taking the reins at Bottega Veneta, and Dario Vitale quietly beginning his chapter at Versace (notably off-schedule), fanning rumours of tension with the Prada Group. Meanwhile, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler step into a new role at Loewe, in what might be the most unexpected appointment of the season. This September will be about seeing who can make their moment matter.
In New York, the calendar feels less sleepy and more considered. Michael Kors opens the week instead of closing it - a rare move for the brand. Veronica Leoni presents her second act at Calvin Klein following a strong debut. Stuart Vevers shows his latest for Coach, fresh off being awarded an OBE. Tory Burch continues her label’s subtle but sharp renaissance, while Nicholas Aburn (formerly of Balenciaga Couture) makes his much-anticipated debut at Area. There’s even a surprise return from COS - quiet confidence seems to be the new luxury.
But the most interesting story this season might be London. With new British Fashion Council CEO Laura Weir promising to rewire the entire system - from waiving LFW fees for September to restoring international press funding - the energy is real. Creative incubation is back on the agenda with long-term support secured for NEWGEN, and the message is clear: London isn’t just for emerging talent, it’s ready to be the fashion capital that defines the cultural future.
Names to watch include Chopova Lowena, Aaron Esh, Talia Byre, Johanna Parv, Ahluwalia, and the new Fashion East cohort, while powerhouses like Simone Rocha, Erdem, and Roksanda bring veteran structure to the week. Burberry headlines the Monday night slot - a key moment to define Daniel Lee’s still-developing era after a dissatisfying sales record of late. Off the catwalk, Jonathan Anderson will host a private JW Anderson dinner to celebrate the label’s new haute-couture-leaning direction — one that’s felt more Paris than Portobello in recent seasons.
In Milan, the absence of a traditional Versace show has created more buzz than most runway teasers. Vitale’s decision to forgo the official calendar triggering industry speculation about deeper frictions within the Prada Group. It’s a bold, maybe risky, move. Meanwhile, Prada, Jil Sander, Moschino, and Bottega Veneta will try to retain the attention span of a global audience increasingly drawn to smaller, smarter shows.
Paris remains the cultural closer, the city that turns collections into statements. Chanel. Dior. Balenciaga. Louis Vuitton. Loewe. YSL. There’s no room for soft launches here. Paris sets the season’s emotional register. This is where nostalgia meets ambition. Where a silhouette isn’t just a look, but a brand thesis. With so many designers in debut seasons, we expect risk - not safety - to rule the runways.
After seasons of pivoting, pausing, and posturing, SS26 finally feels like fashion finding its footing again. The trend cycle is moving faster than ever, and cultural relevance no longer guaranteed by legacy alone, every show is a test. Who has a point of view? Who can scale it? And who can make it stick?