Fashion month ss26 calendar drops
The official calendars for the SS26 Fashion Weeks have landed and the shake-ups are already making waves. While the cities are the same, the mood has shifted: quieter, sharper, more strategic. Between sudden exits, unexpected debuts, and a growing trend toward intimacy over impact, the energy this season is anything but predictable.
One of the biggest surprises? Versace’s absence from the Milan runway. Instead of a traditional show, the house will present Dario Vitale’s debut via an “intimate event” — a term that’s already sparking industry speculation about deeper behind-the-scenes friction. After all, this is Versace: a brand built on excess, power, and theatre. To retreat into subtlety feels more like a warning sign than a creative shift. And when paired with whispers of internal tension following the Prada Group acquisition, it’s hard not to wonder if Vitale’s vision is already under scrutiny.
Back in London, Burberry is promising something “radical” after a quietly received AW25 showing. Whether this means a design pivot or a total rethink of the brand’s format remains to be seen, but pressure is building. Chet Lo and Supriya Lele are both returning to the LFW schedule, reportedly with more commercially focused collections - a sign that London’s indie darlings are entering their business era.
Over in Paris, it’s business as unusual. Balenciaga is rumoured to be staging its show in a vacant monastery, setting the tone for another season of aesthetic austerity meets dystopian drama. Meanwhile, Miu Miu holds onto its cultural chokehold as the most trend-setting show of the season and possibly the most imitated brand in the world right now. In a major move, Luar is crossing the Atlantic to make its Paris debut. After owning New York with sharp tailoring and cultural currency, Raul Lopez is finally going global - and Paris is watching.
Elsewhere, Jacquemus continues his off-calendar escapism, choosing Capri as the backdrop for his latest collection. His sun-drenched, filmic show formats have become a signature now — no longer marketing stunts, but brand DNA. And in Milan, Diesel is sticking to its now-iconic public format, promising another open-invite show designed for virality. After last season’s bed billboard moment, the bar is set sky high.
Looking at the bigger picture, this season feels like a turning point. Intimacy is trending: big houses are scaling back, favouring curated viewings over grand spectacles. Whether that’s down to budget, branding, or burnout, it’s redefining what Fashion Week looks and feels like. Geography is shifting too. Brands are increasingly going rogue - staging shows in far-flung locations outside the traditional circuit, giving the calendar structure while defying it at the same time.
So, what can we expect? Fashion month will still be a spectacle, but don’t expect fireworks at every stop. Instead, expect precision, recalibration, and the unexpected. The brands who make the most impact this season may not be the loudest - just the smartest.