SS27 MENSWEAR
The Paris and Milan Rundown
By Louis Lorgis-Leech
Paris and Milan delivered two distinct visions for Spring/Summer 2027 menswear, balancing experimentation with refined tailoring. While some designers leaned into airy fabrics, metallic finishes and gender-fluid styling, others focused on relaxed silhouettes and understated elegance. Here's a look at the standout trends and defining moments from five of the season's standout shows:
Paris
Dries Van Noten:
Klausner in true Dries fashion continues to blend vivid eclectic prints with well thought out colour gradients that emphasized sensuality through airy light materials like silk, a perfect ode to summer. Sequins were the star of the show used for tops, shorts, even on a drawstring parka! We also saw interesting ballet flat lace ups reinforcing gender fluidity.
Dior:
Anderson clearly wants to undermine the Dior man under Jones with more of an avant-garde focus with a focus on looser tailoring as well as more of a distorted mix and match aesthetic. Gold and silver metallics made an appearance. Plunging robe necklines were frequent, exposing the chest.
Yves Saint Laurent:
The standout from Saint Laurent were the voluminous, lightweight windbreakers featuring high funnel necks and dramatic balloon sleeves, something quite unusual in a men's show for them. There was quite a lot of gold featured from single single breasted blazers with ornate buttons appearing to mimic that of an eye, in other words, classic Saint Laurent as well as the last three looks being mainly gold. Is metallic having its moment? Clear PVC shoes are not going anywhere yet and in this show they were particularly snouty.
Milan
Prada:
Cropped fits. Y2K style large belts occupying the frame. Different colour and type of lens on either side of the same glasses (interesting). I think it is doing too much though. Harness buckle boots with an oversized wraparound buckle had just the right touch of drama to make it stand out from any regular shoe. Solid performance.
Giorgio Armani:
Two words: Street chic. Formal blazers paired with relaxed trousers, some of which almost look like jogging bottoms. Consistent green/grey/brown colour scheme. Boring to some, more aesthetically appealing to others, compared to shows with more of a heterogeneous feel.
Across both cities, designers embraced lighter silhouettes, technical outerwear and subtle nods to Y2K, while metallic accents emerged as a recurring theme. Although some collections pushed avant-garde styling more than others, each offered a distinct perspective on modern menswear. That is to say, what all shows revealed is that menswear is becoming more gender fluid and therefore not attached to a specific stereotype.
Overall, Spring/Summer 2027 feels confident, expressive and unafraid to blur the lines between classic tailoring and contemporary experimentation.